PATEL: You’ve partnered with the best in the business. Talk about your connection with the late Baron de Rothschild. ROBERT MONDAVI: I first met the baron at his chateau in Bordeaux. He was very casually dressed in a Mexican serape and was working on his [bottle] labels–like me, he took great pride in his labels. We had a simple but exquisite dinner–quail, no butter, no cream–served with a 100-year-old Mouton. Not a word of business was spoken that night. He said, “Would you mind?… I do business in my bedroom.” The next morning we met in his immense bedroom; he sat propped up in bed in a silk robe. Rajah, his golden retriever, sat at the foot of the bed. MARGRIT MONDAVI: Their agreement was written on a yellow pad and sealed with a handshake.
How does it feel to be retired? R. MONDAVI: I’ve been “emeritus” for a long time. I never realized I’d be valuable because of my experience. I express my opinion openly to everyone, then they can do what they want. We’ve tried everything–the family operation, the corporate idea–now we’re back to the family way. The corporate way looks at the bottom line; we look at the future.
Your sons have had their differences. Were you able to bring them around to your view? R. MONDAVI: Now they realize we have a common core that we must protect because we’re committed to excellence. We still maintain our differences, but we’re united as a family. M. MONDAVI: And we promote our wines through food and art. R. MONDAVI: Nobody has done that–we’re unique. Americans are more cultured than foreigners perceive us to be. The image of the ugly American abroad bothers me. I wanted to straighten that out by building something permanent. Copia will educate our children that wine, food and the arts enhance life. It’s that simple.
Promoting arts is a way to give back? R. MONDAVI: Exactly. Even my children–who have been amply provided for–are realizing there’s some wisdom to it.
What is Margrit’s contribution to the legacy you’re creating? R. MONDAVI: Margrit’s invaluable. She added another dimension to my life and gave our business the artistic touch we lacked. And she did it in her quiet way. She’s a big asset, but she’s so humble.
Talk about Copia, Margrit. M. MONDAVI: We start with the wine experience and integrate wine with gastronomy. This continent has created many foods: the tomato, potato, corn, pineapple… The restaurant demonstrates its cookery and serves delicious, simple, organic California cuisine. We’ll have rotating exhibits on, say, American silver, U.S. quilts, 1920s kitchen gadgets, and a sculpture garden. In our eight-acre garden of organic food, we’ll talk about what we grow. Copia’s an interactive museum. There’ll be tastings, lectures, a little vineyard and wines from all over the world. Educators will show you why this “terroir” gives a wine this flavor. There’s a 500-seat amphitheater by the river for music.
Has it been hard for you in this male-dominated industry? M. MONDAVI: Yes. As the first woman tour guide in Napa I made $2 an hour and worked out of a garage! The older male guides hated me because I sold the most wine. Later, when I came to work for Mondavi, I had to bring along my own little Smith-Corona [typewriter]. When I suggested a concert Bob said, “If it doesn’t cost anything.” Artists donated their time, I brought my piano from home in a van and hand-made the tickets; 400 people came and sat on the grass. Since then, we’ve had very popular concerts every summer weekend at Mondavi. People bring picnics and sit on the grass. But concerts won’t be the main thing at Copia–we’re rebuilding an opera house in Napa.
What will you do next? R. MONDAVI: I’m still looking at the whole world, I love Spain, there’s Argentina… I’m young at heart; there’s much to be done.
